1998 saw a change in the strategy for the Honda. Three different models were created for different world marketplaces. Now the American versions consisted of only the sedan and coupe. Once again the car grew to its largest size. The coupe was modified to look and sell as a different model from the sedan, rather than being marketed as a two door sedan.
Three different engines were offered for the Accord along with the standard two types of transmissions. The sedan in America was offered in five different trim levels and the coupe in four. Horsepower in the four cylinder model increased to 150 hp with a 2.3 liter engine which was available in the LX and EX trim lines. Later a 3.0 liter engine of 200 hp was used for all V6 sedans and coupe models.
Dealer installed options for the EX-V6 included a gold finish kit, gold finish exhaust tip(s), 6-disc in dash CD changer, car cover, gold finish wheel center caps, sunroof visor and accessory chrome wheels. The humble Accord was now getting fancy.
In 1998 keys were equipped with immobilizer microchips followed in 1999 by the car being given foldable mirrors.
In 2001 both the sedan and the coupe received a minor facelift. It consisted of a new front fascia, side skirt alteration, rear bumper, new wheels designs and new taillights. Depending upon the trim line the cars received either a standard CD player or the 6-disc in-dash CD changer with a cassette player and an automatic climate control. The EX-V6 model also received a traction control system, that the driver could turn off.
Accord had an enviable reputation for top notch reliability, however this changed with the V6 models. Many had transmission failures and class action law suits were filed against the company. This resulted in the company extending the warranties for the 1998 - 2002 models to seven years or 100,000 miles to build confidence back in the brand.
Dennis Dater has been interested in cars since he learned to drive in a 1952 MG TD. He is opening two unique web sites to offer Honda Accord aftermarket parts. Visit him and see the products or read more articles.
http://www.accordmania.com for Accord performance products
http://www.accordtopia.com for Accord appearance products
miércoles, 29 de abril de 2009
martes, 11 de noviembre de 2008
2003 Honda Accord Transmission Failure
Transmission failure with the Honda Accord is a widespread problem in models made from the early 2000s. The 2003 Honda Accord appears to be the worst year for transmission failure.
Many of the transmission failure complaints are caused by the torque converter failing - the engine will rev up but the car won't shift into gear or move. In some reports, the torque converter burned up the transmission fluid which ruined the transmission.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord EX 3.0L V6 Automatic transmission
61,000 miles
gregh
San Diego, CA, USA
I can't believe that Honda put out this kind of %@#$!!! We purchased our 2003 Accord EXL V6 brand new. I really had no problems with it until the warranty ran out. At around 61,000 miles I started noticing slipping, then the traction control light comes on in the dash. I take it to the Honda dealer which they looked at and found nothing. About another thousand miles down the road and the transmission completely failed. We had extended warranty coverage so we only paid the deductible to have a "used" transmission put in the car. (yeah, that fine print in the coverage stating they could use "used" parts - my bad) I thought that perhaps it was just a fluke and we just got a bad first transmission in our car; I was wrong. We have 86,000 miles on this car and the piece of junk is going out again!!! I too am a multiple Honda owner and have owned previous Accords that lasted 200,000 miles with no problem. I'm seriously thinking about changing my loyality to a company that won't recall this when they know good and well it's junk!! I'm hoping that a class action lawsuit will get going so I can add my name to the list!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord EX V6
Automatic transmission
57,000 miles
Anthony G.
Langhorne, PA, USA
so I have a 2003 accord and I had to replace the transmission on it in January of 08. After I got it back the car seemed a little bit slower to me but I just figured it was the new transmission warming itself up. Now mind you my car had aprox. 57k miles on it. Still a very young car. Now its October of 08 and would t yea know it my transmissio. Is failing again. Now I literally baby my car. Change fluids, oil, do whatever I can to make sure "my Honda" can and would always remain my Honda. Now at 68k miles not even 20k on the new tranny its shot again. My waranty ended in June. Go figure right?!?! So I call the dealership and let them know the new tranny they gave me is already shot. So what do they tell me???? Come in and well give ya another one. But they didnt tell me I would b paying for it until after I got diagnostics ran on it. I laughed at them wen they told me I was going to have to pay out of my own pocket. So I asked for the supervisor and showed him the slip of the new tranny they installed and he turns to me and says yea sorry nothing I can do to help you out here ur warantee ran out I can't do anything for you. What a load of shit honda has come to. This lawsuit I've been reading about going through give me a number to a lawyer covering alot of us and I'm in for the lawsuit.Anyway I owned a 88 accord ex manual transmission and that didnt go on me until thr car had 187,356 miles on it. I shouldve just kept that car and bought myself that new transmission for it :,(. And I will never buy Honda again if they don't fix my problems free since they couldn't gives a damn tranny that would remain good. And to think two wks from now I was going to trade this car for the 08 model. Fat chance I want this problem with that too.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord EX 3.0L V6
Automatic transmission
104,975 miles
skwong
Apopka, FL, USA
I was driving and about to merge into the freeway when I step into the petal, noticed my rpm jump up high and I couldn't get any power to speed up. then it took about 5 seconds to kick into gear to get moving. it wouldn't say in gear so I had to call a AAA to tow it to the Honda dealership. It would be in the shop for 3 days and I had to rent a car while it was in the shop. it would cost me 2899 to replaced with a new transmission, I had previous Honda with 230k with no transmission problem and family and friends had Honda accord with over 100k with no transmission problems, but I have to question the 5speed automatic transmission reliability. I think Honda knows about the transmission problem and that's why it was recalled to fix the problem in 2004. I feel that I should have to pay for replacing my transmission because I feel that Honda didn't correct the problem in the first place and caused my to waste time and money on fixing and renting a car. I'm still waiting for the response from the Honda America case manager because I already paid for the expenses. I have to wait and see if they will help pay for any expense that I had to pay for up front.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord LX V6
Automatic transmission
122,841 miles
krispyjala
San Mateo, CA, USA
Drove locally to a clinic, and was stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic for about 30 minutes before getting there. About a mile from the clinic, as I was going to accelerate from full stop in red light, the car will not budge. The engine revved but no forward movement--like I was stuck in neutral. Called AAA and towed the car to a Honda dealer. Was notified later that I need a transmission replacement, and American Honda will cover only 25% of the $3000. So now I'm stuck with the $2300 bill. I think this is unacceptable, if there are these many cases listed here. At least they should have paid for the part, which is like 50% of the cost. Anyways, tried arguing with them, but won't budge. As far as I'm concerned, I'll never buy another Honda or Acura until they've admitted their wrong and pay for the transmission cost. I'm also telling all my friends, families, and everyone I've come in contact with to avoid Honda/Acura at all costs. I've been maintaining this Accord according to the owner's manual, replacing the transmission fluid every 30k at 60k, 90k, and 120k, so I don't see what else I could have done to prevent this, as it seems to be a design flaw in the transmission. Hope a lot more people with an Accord 2003 will report this problem once their cars hit 100k+ (of course, I do hope they never get a transmission failure in the first place...but it seems like it might happen, just like it did for all of us here). If somebody wants to start a class action lawsuit, leave me a comment/message, and I'll get back to you.
for more complains please visit:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Accord/2003/transmission/transmission_failure.shtml
Many of the transmission failure complaints are caused by the torque converter failing - the engine will rev up but the car won't shift into gear or move. In some reports, the torque converter burned up the transmission fluid which ruined the transmission.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord EX 3.0L V6 Automatic transmission
61,000 miles
gregh
San Diego, CA, USA
I can't believe that Honda put out this kind of %@#$!!! We purchased our 2003 Accord EXL V6 brand new. I really had no problems with it until the warranty ran out. At around 61,000 miles I started noticing slipping, then the traction control light comes on in the dash. I take it to the Honda dealer which they looked at and found nothing. About another thousand miles down the road and the transmission completely failed. We had extended warranty coverage so we only paid the deductible to have a "used" transmission put in the car. (yeah, that fine print in the coverage stating they could use "used" parts - my bad) I thought that perhaps it was just a fluke and we just got a bad first transmission in our car; I was wrong. We have 86,000 miles on this car and the piece of junk is going out again!!! I too am a multiple Honda owner and have owned previous Accords that lasted 200,000 miles with no problem. I'm seriously thinking about changing my loyality to a company that won't recall this when they know good and well it's junk!! I'm hoping that a class action lawsuit will get going so I can add my name to the list!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord EX V6
Automatic transmission
57,000 miles
Anthony G.
Langhorne, PA, USA
so I have a 2003 accord and I had to replace the transmission on it in January of 08. After I got it back the car seemed a little bit slower to me but I just figured it was the new transmission warming itself up. Now mind you my car had aprox. 57k miles on it. Still a very young car. Now its October of 08 and would t yea know it my transmissio. Is failing again. Now I literally baby my car. Change fluids, oil, do whatever I can to make sure "my Honda" can and would always remain my Honda. Now at 68k miles not even 20k on the new tranny its shot again. My waranty ended in June. Go figure right?!?! So I call the dealership and let them know the new tranny they gave me is already shot. So what do they tell me???? Come in and well give ya another one. But they didnt tell me I would b paying for it until after I got diagnostics ran on it. I laughed at them wen they told me I was going to have to pay out of my own pocket. So I asked for the supervisor and showed him the slip of the new tranny they installed and he turns to me and says yea sorry nothing I can do to help you out here ur warantee ran out I can't do anything for you. What a load of shit honda has come to. This lawsuit I've been reading about going through give me a number to a lawyer covering alot of us and I'm in for the lawsuit.Anyway I owned a 88 accord ex manual transmission and that didnt go on me until thr car had 187,356 miles on it. I shouldve just kept that car and bought myself that new transmission for it :,(. And I will never buy Honda again if they don't fix my problems free since they couldn't gives a damn tranny that would remain good. And to think two wks from now I was going to trade this car for the 08 model. Fat chance I want this problem with that too.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord EX 3.0L V6
Automatic transmission
104,975 miles
skwong
Apopka, FL, USA
I was driving and about to merge into the freeway when I step into the petal, noticed my rpm jump up high and I couldn't get any power to speed up. then it took about 5 seconds to kick into gear to get moving. it wouldn't say in gear so I had to call a AAA to tow it to the Honda dealership. It would be in the shop for 3 days and I had to rent a car while it was in the shop. it would cost me 2899 to replaced with a new transmission, I had previous Honda with 230k with no transmission problem and family and friends had Honda accord with over 100k with no transmission problems, but I have to question the 5speed automatic transmission reliability. I think Honda knows about the transmission problem and that's why it was recalled to fix the problem in 2004. I feel that I should have to pay for replacing my transmission because I feel that Honda didn't correct the problem in the first place and caused my to waste time and money on fixing and renting a car. I'm still waiting for the response from the Honda America case manager because I already paid for the expenses. I have to wait and see if they will help pay for any expense that I had to pay for up front.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Accord LX V6
Automatic transmission
122,841 miles
krispyjala
San Mateo, CA, USA
Drove locally to a clinic, and was stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic for about 30 minutes before getting there. About a mile from the clinic, as I was going to accelerate from full stop in red light, the car will not budge. The engine revved but no forward movement--like I was stuck in neutral. Called AAA and towed the car to a Honda dealer. Was notified later that I need a transmission replacement, and American Honda will cover only 25% of the $3000. So now I'm stuck with the $2300 bill. I think this is unacceptable, if there are these many cases listed here. At least they should have paid for the part, which is like 50% of the cost. Anyways, tried arguing with them, but won't budge. As far as I'm concerned, I'll never buy another Honda or Acura until they've admitted their wrong and pay for the transmission cost. I'm also telling all my friends, families, and everyone I've come in contact with to avoid Honda/Acura at all costs. I've been maintaining this Accord according to the owner's manual, replacing the transmission fluid every 30k at 60k, 90k, and 120k, so I don't see what else I could have done to prevent this, as it seems to be a design flaw in the transmission. Hope a lot more people with an Accord 2003 will report this problem once their cars hit 100k+ (of course, I do hope they never get a transmission failure in the first place...but it seems like it might happen, just like it did for all of us here). If somebody wants to start a class action lawsuit, leave me a comment/message, and I'll get back to you.
for more complains please visit:
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Accord/2003/transmission/transmission_failure.shtml
domingo, 9 de noviembre de 2008
Honda Alternator
The alternator produces electricity used to maintain battery storage charge and to help run all the electrical accessories, including the ignition and the engine control systems. It is belt-driven by the engine and produces an alternating current (AC), which is converted internally to 12 volts direct current (DC) by the diode bridge or rectifiers.
AC current cannot be stored but is much more efficiently produced, which is why cars no longer use generators but use alternators and convert the electricity to DC. Most alternators now use internal voltage regulators to maintain the proper system voltage, from 12.6-14.5 volts. You should check your Honda's repair manual or with your local dealer to obtain the exact proper voltage for your Honda.
Contrary to popular belief, an alternator does not constantly produce electricity. It cycles on and off as demand goes up and down. The battery buffers it from the electrical demands of the car, and it only works enough to maintain system voltage. At peak efficiency and for longest life, the alternator should be charging no more than about 50% of the time.
However, with the demands placed on the system by heat and by extraneous electrical devices (i.e., high powered stereos, running lights, etc, the alternator and battery are stressed even further. The average alternator now is lucky to last 3-4 years, which is why a prematurely dead battery may actually be caused by a dead alternator.
Understanding the importance of having an operational warning light for the alternator (idiot light) is crucial to catching problems early. In most modern systems, the electrical current passing through the filament of the warning light is what energizes a circuit in the alternator to start charging.
This signal light is linked directly to the alternator through its terminal (#1, I, L, D+, etc. depending on the brand) and functions slightly differently on different manufacturers.
To check the warning light circuit, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position without cranking or starting the engine; if the idiot light does not come on, remove the plug from the alternator and ground the wire that terminates to the #1, I, L or D+ terminal (depending on manufacturer). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the alternator is defective; if the light still does not come on, the wiring to the light circuit and the bulb should be checked.
Don't forget to check the fuse that controls the light circuit, too. This fuse could be labeled differently in various cars. It could be labeled "charging", "regulator", "meters", "gauges" or "engine". In some cars, if the fuse is out, the idiot light will come on but may not go off. In others (like GM), a burned out fuse may make the warning light work in reverse order; that is, when the key is on, the light is off but as soon as the engine starts and the alternator starts charging, the light will come on.
Checking out these simple circuits first can greatly reduce your troubleshooting time and unnecessary replacement of your alternator.
As we delve further into charge light indicators, we find that in some cases it is normal for the charge indicator light to come on when nothing is wrong with the alternator.
According to information published by GM, any car may have a low voltage reading or lights that dim when electrical loads are heavy at idle. Furthermore, this condition is normal and no repairs should be attempted unless a fault has been found.
For clarification, as a car idles for extended periods of time during high heat conditions, a number of things happen that contribute to "lowered" alternator output that coincides with physics and the design of the alternator:
1. As heat within the alternator increases, the electrical resistance in the alternator also increases, which reduces the alternator's charging capacity.
2. As temperature rises, the voltage setpoint of the regulator is lowered to reduce the chance of overcharging or "boiling" the battery.
3. Newer designed alternators have a "delay/soft start" built into the regulator circuit. This delays the load being placed upon the engine when starting up from a stop, so that the smaller engines in use today are not loaded down upon acceleration due to charging demands. This can delay the charging by up to 15 seconds.
With the alternator's capacity for charging reduced by heat and other factors, an alternator may only be able to produce up to 70% of its rated output under these conditions. So an alternator rated for 100 amps may only be able to produce 70 amps when hot at idle when there is 77 or more amps of demand on it.
If it can be considered normal for warning lights to glow while a healthy alternator is running, how do you know if the alternator is really good or if there are other problems lurking around?
A thorough diagnosis is always the best route to determining whether or not the alternator is at fault, but there are times when diagnosis time is short and you still need a positive identification of the problem. Cases like this require a foolproof tool to speed things up. In the case of Delco CS series alternators, there is a tool available from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B), which isolates the alternator from the car's wiring harness and lets you see if the alternator is at fault or if there is a wiring problem elsewhere within the car's wiring harness. The best thing about this tool, besides being compact and handheld, is that it doesn't require any interpretation of data by the operator. The little light on the unit lights or doesn't light depending upon whether the alternator is good or not.
Unfortunately, while this is a great little piece of equipment and there are other similar tools available, once you determine that the alternator is not the culprit, you still have to fix the electrical problem.
AC current cannot be stored but is much more efficiently produced, which is why cars no longer use generators but use alternators and convert the electricity to DC. Most alternators now use internal voltage regulators to maintain the proper system voltage, from 12.6-14.5 volts. You should check your Honda's repair manual or with your local dealer to obtain the exact proper voltage for your Honda.
Contrary to popular belief, an alternator does not constantly produce electricity. It cycles on and off as demand goes up and down. The battery buffers it from the electrical demands of the car, and it only works enough to maintain system voltage. At peak efficiency and for longest life, the alternator should be charging no more than about 50% of the time.
However, with the demands placed on the system by heat and by extraneous electrical devices (i.e., high powered stereos, running lights, etc, the alternator and battery are stressed even further. The average alternator now is lucky to last 3-4 years, which is why a prematurely dead battery may actually be caused by a dead alternator.
Understanding the importance of having an operational warning light for the alternator (idiot light) is crucial to catching problems early. In most modern systems, the electrical current passing through the filament of the warning light is what energizes a circuit in the alternator to start charging.
This signal light is linked directly to the alternator through its terminal (#1, I, L, D+, etc. depending on the brand) and functions slightly differently on different manufacturers.
To check the warning light circuit, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position without cranking or starting the engine; if the idiot light does not come on, remove the plug from the alternator and ground the wire that terminates to the #1, I, L or D+ terminal (depending on manufacturer). If the light comes on, the wiring is okay but the alternator is defective; if the light still does not come on, the wiring to the light circuit and the bulb should be checked.
Don't forget to check the fuse that controls the light circuit, too. This fuse could be labeled differently in various cars. It could be labeled "charging", "regulator", "meters", "gauges" or "engine". In some cars, if the fuse is out, the idiot light will come on but may not go off. In others (like GM), a burned out fuse may make the warning light work in reverse order; that is, when the key is on, the light is off but as soon as the engine starts and the alternator starts charging, the light will come on.
Checking out these simple circuits first can greatly reduce your troubleshooting time and unnecessary replacement of your alternator.
As we delve further into charge light indicators, we find that in some cases it is normal for the charge indicator light to come on when nothing is wrong with the alternator.
According to information published by GM, any car may have a low voltage reading or lights that dim when electrical loads are heavy at idle. Furthermore, this condition is normal and no repairs should be attempted unless a fault has been found.
For clarification, as a car idles for extended periods of time during high heat conditions, a number of things happen that contribute to "lowered" alternator output that coincides with physics and the design of the alternator:
1. As heat within the alternator increases, the electrical resistance in the alternator also increases, which reduces the alternator's charging capacity.
2. As temperature rises, the voltage setpoint of the regulator is lowered to reduce the chance of overcharging or "boiling" the battery.
3. Newer designed alternators have a "delay/soft start" built into the regulator circuit. This delays the load being placed upon the engine when starting up from a stop, so that the smaller engines in use today are not loaded down upon acceleration due to charging demands. This can delay the charging by up to 15 seconds.
With the alternator's capacity for charging reduced by heat and other factors, an alternator may only be able to produce up to 70% of its rated output under these conditions. So an alternator rated for 100 amps may only be able to produce 70 amps when hot at idle when there is 77 or more amps of demand on it.
If it can be considered normal for warning lights to glow while a healthy alternator is running, how do you know if the alternator is really good or if there are other problems lurking around?
A thorough diagnosis is always the best route to determining whether or not the alternator is at fault, but there are times when diagnosis time is short and you still need a positive identification of the problem. Cases like this require a foolproof tool to speed things up. In the case of Delco CS series alternators, there is a tool available from Kent-Moore tools (J-41450-B), which isolates the alternator from the car's wiring harness and lets you see if the alternator is at fault or if there is a wiring problem elsewhere within the car's wiring harness. The best thing about this tool, besides being compact and handheld, is that it doesn't require any interpretation of data by the operator. The little light on the unit lights or doesn't light depending upon whether the alternator is good or not.
Unfortunately, while this is a great little piece of equipment and there are other similar tools available, once you determine that the alternator is not the culprit, you still have to fix the electrical problem.
Honda Battery
The battery is a storage device, currently 12 volts, used to start the engine and help operate the electrical accessories installed on your Honda. The battery consists of six cells of stacked positive and negative lead plates, separated by insulators and immersed in electrolyte, which is a water and sulfuric acid mixture. Each of the six cells "produces" 2.1 volts for a total of 12.6 volts (although it's actually stored energy, not produced).
The chemical reaction created between the lead plates and the electrolyte creates dangerous, explosive gases that vent through the battery cover vents. Care should always be taken when charging or jump starting low batteries and whenever working under the hood of the car. Always keep the battery clean to allow proper ventilation.
Some batteries use a gel to replace the electrolyte for a somewhat safer battery and the use of "maintenance-free" batteries has eliminated the need for refilling the electrolyte. However, all batteries lose charging capacity over time through the loss of the electrolyte, deterioration of the plates and chemical breakdown of the connections.
Whenever your Honda exhibits symptoms of a charging or starting system failure, the most basic test that should be performed first is a visual and voltage test of the battery. Knowing the exact condition of the battery is the best way to know whether or not to suspect other system components and can prevent the unnecessary installation of a starter or alternator, which cannot repair the vehicle until the battery is up to snuff.
To analyze the condition of a battery, very little high-tech equipment is really needed. While there is excellent equipment available for big $$$$, all that is really needed is a good DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), a battery charger, some patience and a little common sense.
The chemical reaction created between the lead plates and the electrolyte creates dangerous, explosive gases that vent through the battery cover vents. Care should always be taken when charging or jump starting low batteries and whenever working under the hood of the car. Always keep the battery clean to allow proper ventilation.
Some batteries use a gel to replace the electrolyte for a somewhat safer battery and the use of "maintenance-free" batteries has eliminated the need for refilling the electrolyte. However, all batteries lose charging capacity over time through the loss of the electrolyte, deterioration of the plates and chemical breakdown of the connections.
Whenever your Honda exhibits symptoms of a charging or starting system failure, the most basic test that should be performed first is a visual and voltage test of the battery. Knowing the exact condition of the battery is the best way to know whether or not to suspect other system components and can prevent the unnecessary installation of a starter or alternator, which cannot repair the vehicle until the battery is up to snuff.
To analyze the condition of a battery, very little high-tech equipment is really needed. While there is excellent equipment available for big $$$$, all that is really needed is a good DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), a battery charger, some patience and a little common sense.
jueves, 6 de noviembre de 2008
2001 Honda Civic Transmission failure
Transmission failure with the Honda Civic is a widespread problem in models made from the early 2000s. The 2001 Honda Civic appears to be the worst year for transmission failure.
Chris P.
Denton, TX, USA
Civic LX: Automatic transmission
102,000 miles
My transmission has been slipping for a while - perhaps a few months, maybe longer, but I'm not enough of a gear head (like, not at all) to know. Last Thursday, transmission totally went out of the thing. I was barely able to drive it the few blocks to my mechanic (thank the Lord it didn't go out during my commute). My local mechanic mentioned similar problems with Accords and Civics in this time frame.
I had my car towed to Bankston Honda in Lewisville, TX this morning after my local mechanic confirmed it was internal transmission trouble. They gave me a quote of around $2700 to replace the transmission. I asked about the 'goodwill' discount, and the service guy said I'd need to contact Honda Customer Service and take that up with them.
Just got off the phone with Honda Customer Service. The rep said there was no such thing as a 'goodwill' discount and when I asked to talk to a supervisor, she said she could open a case file for me and have it researched. She asked me how many Hondas I've owned (2, counting this one), what I was looking for from Honda (I said 50% of the repair cost) and why I felt they should do something (I said I Honda's quality reputation never lead me to expect to have to get my whole transmission replaced at 100k miles, and if I'd wanted that I would've bought from another company).
knobb
Springfield, MO, USA
Civic LX 1.7L: Automatic transmission
68,980 miles
Another 2001 civic automatic COMPLETE FAILURE transmission. I have owned four Hondas in the last ten years, but I see that trend coming to an abrupt end. My civic has 69k on it, and its going to cost $4000.00 for a new trans, or $1500.00 for one with the same damn problems out of a junk yard. Honda, if your listening, this is a big shovel full of B.S. and the likelyhood of me buying anything from you again (dammit, even my lawnmower is a Honda) is getting slim. Pissed in MO, Knobb.
ghanks
Belleville, IL, USA
Civic EX: Automatic transmission
120,000 miles
On September 12, 2008 the transmission on my 2001 Honda Civic EX failed. I had about 120,000 miles on it. I was at a stop light and put my foot on the gas and my car would not move. A kind person behind me in the long line of cars helped to push my car off to the shoulder. I had my car towed to our Honda dealership in Ofallon IL. Their estimate for the repair was $4000. They would replace the transmission. I called several mechanics in our area and they would rebuild the transmission for about $2000. While talking to a mechanic he told me that he has seen many transmission problems with Honda. After reading complaints on this site, I found out about a goodwill repair from Honda. So I called Honda of America and a case manager worked with our Honda dealership in Ofallon. The final cost for the repair was $1768. At the dealership they replaced my transmission not rebuilt it. It was still far more money than I wanted to spend on a car that I thought was reliable, but better than $4000. Honda of America told me that if you take it to a mechanic rather than the dealership, they might reimburse you. You would have to send in the paperwork and a casemanager would review
Chris P.
Denton, TX, USA
Civic LX: Automatic transmission
102,000 miles
My transmission has been slipping for a while - perhaps a few months, maybe longer, but I'm not enough of a gear head (like, not at all) to know. Last Thursday, transmission totally went out of the thing. I was barely able to drive it the few blocks to my mechanic (thank the Lord it didn't go out during my commute). My local mechanic mentioned similar problems with Accords and Civics in this time frame.
I had my car towed to Bankston Honda in Lewisville, TX this morning after my local mechanic confirmed it was internal transmission trouble. They gave me a quote of around $2700 to replace the transmission. I asked about the 'goodwill' discount, and the service guy said I'd need to contact Honda Customer Service and take that up with them.
Just got off the phone with Honda Customer Service. The rep said there was no such thing as a 'goodwill' discount and when I asked to talk to a supervisor, she said she could open a case file for me and have it researched. She asked me how many Hondas I've owned (2, counting this one), what I was looking for from Honda (I said 50% of the repair cost) and why I felt they should do something (I said I Honda's quality reputation never lead me to expect to have to get my whole transmission replaced at 100k miles, and if I'd wanted that I would've bought from another company).
knobb
Springfield, MO, USA
Civic LX 1.7L: Automatic transmission
68,980 miles
Another 2001 civic automatic COMPLETE FAILURE transmission. I have owned four Hondas in the last ten years, but I see that trend coming to an abrupt end. My civic has 69k on it, and its going to cost $4000.00 for a new trans, or $1500.00 for one with the same damn problems out of a junk yard. Honda, if your listening, this is a big shovel full of B.S. and the likelyhood of me buying anything from you again (dammit, even my lawnmower is a Honda) is getting slim. Pissed in MO, Knobb.
ghanks
Belleville, IL, USA
Civic EX: Automatic transmission
120,000 miles
On September 12, 2008 the transmission on my 2001 Honda Civic EX failed. I had about 120,000 miles on it. I was at a stop light and put my foot on the gas and my car would not move. A kind person behind me in the long line of cars helped to push my car off to the shoulder. I had my car towed to our Honda dealership in Ofallon IL. Their estimate for the repair was $4000. They would replace the transmission. I called several mechanics in our area and they would rebuild the transmission for about $2000. While talking to a mechanic he told me that he has seen many transmission problems with Honda. After reading complaints on this site, I found out about a goodwill repair from Honda. So I called Honda of America and a case manager worked with our Honda dealership in Ofallon. The final cost for the repair was $1768. At the dealership they replaced my transmission not rebuilt it. It was still far more money than I wanted to spend on a car that I thought was reliable, but better than $4000. Honda of America told me that if you take it to a mechanic rather than the dealership, they might reimburse you. You would have to send in the paperwork and a casemanager would review
miércoles, 5 de noviembre de 2008
Honda Brakes Repairs
Use Your Eyes & Ears to Inspect Your Honda's Brakes
Visually inspect your brakes' condition at least every six months. Here are some things to look for:
Brake Rotors (discs) should be inspected all the way around the surface and on both sides for any concentric scoring (grooves) or obvious defects. If defects are found, replace your rotors immediately. Any rotor discoloration may be a sign of overheating and an inspection by a Honda brake repair professional is needed.
Brake Pads will normally match rotor scoring but should also be inspected for uneven wear, breakage or cracking on the friction surface. Again, if defects are found, replace the pads immediately. Many cars also have brake pad sensors to warn of pad wear. If your Honda uses sensors, replace these at the same time as your pads.
Brake Drums (if equipped) should also be inspected on a regular basis. Check for the same types of flaws as noted above. The drums should not have excessive grooves or have a deep "trough" dug into them where the shoes ride.
Brake Shoes (if equipped) should be worn evenly and have no rivets protruding to the friction surface.
Additional Troubleshooting: When inspecting brakes, check calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses and fittings for any hydraulic fluid leakage.
Inspect the master cylinder, reservoir and proportioning valve assemblies as well. Replace or rebuild as required.
A "spongy" brake pedal or one that's gotten lower underfoot also needs looking into. It could be caused by sticking calipers, worn pads, low fluid or hydraulic system problems.
If you can't "pump them up", then you definitely have hydraulic problems that need work. If you always have to pump them up, at the very least your hydraulic fluid needs replacement.
To check brakes by sound, know how your brakes should sound and listen for out-of-the-ordinary noises.
Most cars have a slight brushing sound from the pads lightly touching the rotors. This is perfectly normal. Sounds to beware of include:
Squeaking may be caused by dust or dirt on the brakes, loose pads vibrating when applied or worn pads.
Rhythmic noise might mean you have a warped rotor. Instead of a solid squeaking noise, it pulsates. In extreme cases, the brake pedal will also pulsate underfoot.
Constant brake noise is never a good sound and any grinding noise spells real trouble!
Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous.
Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your Honda in an emergency.
Even if you manage to avoid physical harm, the longer you delay fixing brake problems, the more you increase the cost of doing so.
Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.
Even if you like doing your own work, every few years your Honda brakes should be examined by a Honda professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others, are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also uncover underlying problems that could eventually become costly or dangerous.
Important Things to Remember
Heed these tips and you're on your way to ensuring your Honda brakes won't fail:
Tip #1: Keep the hydraulic reservoir at the proper level with the fluid type recommended by Honda. Never substitute or mix types of fluid. Remember also that hydraulic fluid absorbs water. Never use old hydraulic fluid - always use a fresh container.
Tip #2: Keep brakes clean by washing them off at the same time as your car. This keeps squeaky dust and dirt off the pads and makes brakes easier to inspect and work on.
Tip #3: Never spray, touch or drip any oil or lubricants on the brake friction surfaces. If this occurs, spray immediately with brake cleaner to remove completely.
Tip #4: There are no shortcuts or quick fixes to brake problems. They either function properly or they don't. Know your brake system - how it should work, feel and sound - before it acts up so you'll know when something's wrong.
Tip #5: Most imports don't have serviceable rotors. They must be replaced at the same time as the pads. The rotors cannot be "turned" to remove imperfections. There isn't sufficient metal thickness to safely accomplish this.
Tip #6: Keep a repair log with receipts when any service is performed on your Honda. It helps when you need to check if your warranty is still in effect. More importantly, it's a great gauge of performance and an indicator of other problems.
Tip #7: Whenever the pads are replaced, the hydraulic system must be bled to remove any air bubbles. Most Honda specialists recommend changing the fluid with every pad replacement. If you're unsure of the proper technique for bleeding the hydraulic system, don't perform the job yourself. Seek help from a Honda professional. ABS equipped cars should be bled only by professionals.
Tip #8: Most noises are usually related to your pads. However, whenever replacing pads, you should also replace the sensors and seriously consider replacing the rotors at the same time.
Tip #9: After installing new pads, remember to "set" them properly. This conditions them for maximum performance and prevents premature failure. Instructions for setting pads is usually provided in the package with your new pads.
Honda Brake Parts Shopping List
When shopping for Honda brake parts, remember two important things:
1. OEM/OES (original equipment manufactured/supplied) or equivalent pads and rotors are not always cheap. You do, however, get what you pay for. OE parts will give you the most trouble-free driving and peace of mind. And . . . isn't that what's most important?
2. Before requesting any brake parts for your Honda, make sure you have the year, exact model designation, engine size and type, brake configuration, type of rotors (solid or vented), vehicle ID number (VIN) and production date. For Volvos, you'll also need rotor diameter, caliper manufacturer and mount and shape of the pads.
Here is a list of parts you should consider when working on Honda brake systems:
- Front Brake Rotors (Brake Discs) -
- Front Brake Pads -
- Rear Brake Rotors (Brake Discs) or Rear Brake Drums -
- Rear Brake Pads or Brake Shoes -
- Brake Sensors (front and/or rear, as applicable)
- Brake Calipers or Caliper Rebuild Kits -
- Wheel Cylinders -
- Hydraulic Hoses -
- Hose/Tube Fittings -
- Brake Master Cylinder -
- Power Booster -
- Reservoir & Grommets -
- Brake Proportioning Valve Assembly -
- Hydraulic & Brake Fluid -
- Brake Cleaner -
- Anti-Squeal Compound -
Don't Forget:
Repair articles are added regularly.
Come back often to check for new maintenance topics.
These repair tips are designed only as a starting point.
Please seek the assistance of a professional Honda mechanic
for all repair problems beyond your capabilities
Visually inspect your brakes' condition at least every six months. Here are some things to look for:
Brake Rotors (discs) should be inspected all the way around the surface and on both sides for any concentric scoring (grooves) or obvious defects. If defects are found, replace your rotors immediately. Any rotor discoloration may be a sign of overheating and an inspection by a Honda brake repair professional is needed.
Brake Pads will normally match rotor scoring but should also be inspected for uneven wear, breakage or cracking on the friction surface. Again, if defects are found, replace the pads immediately. Many cars also have brake pad sensors to warn of pad wear. If your Honda uses sensors, replace these at the same time as your pads.
Brake Drums (if equipped) should also be inspected on a regular basis. Check for the same types of flaws as noted above. The drums should not have excessive grooves or have a deep "trough" dug into them where the shoes ride.
Brake Shoes (if equipped) should be worn evenly and have no rivets protruding to the friction surface.
Additional Troubleshooting: When inspecting brakes, check calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses and fittings for any hydraulic fluid leakage.
Inspect the master cylinder, reservoir and proportioning valve assemblies as well. Replace or rebuild as required.
A "spongy" brake pedal or one that's gotten lower underfoot also needs looking into. It could be caused by sticking calipers, worn pads, low fluid or hydraulic system problems.
If you can't "pump them up", then you definitely have hydraulic problems that need work. If you always have to pump them up, at the very least your hydraulic fluid needs replacement.
To check brakes by sound, know how your brakes should sound and listen for out-of-the-ordinary noises.
Most cars have a slight brushing sound from the pads lightly touching the rotors. This is perfectly normal. Sounds to beware of include:
Squeaking may be caused by dust or dirt on the brakes, loose pads vibrating when applied or worn pads.
Rhythmic noise might mean you have a warped rotor. Instead of a solid squeaking noise, it pulsates. In extreme cases, the brake pedal will also pulsate underfoot.
Constant brake noise is never a good sound and any grinding noise spells real trouble!
Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous.
Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your Honda in an emergency.
Even if you manage to avoid physical harm, the longer you delay fixing brake problems, the more you increase the cost of doing so.
Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.
Even if you like doing your own work, every few years your Honda brakes should be examined by a Honda professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others, are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also uncover underlying problems that could eventually become costly or dangerous.
Important Things to Remember
Heed these tips and you're on your way to ensuring your Honda brakes won't fail:
Tip #1: Keep the hydraulic reservoir at the proper level with the fluid type recommended by Honda. Never substitute or mix types of fluid. Remember also that hydraulic fluid absorbs water. Never use old hydraulic fluid - always use a fresh container.
Tip #2: Keep brakes clean by washing them off at the same time as your car. This keeps squeaky dust and dirt off the pads and makes brakes easier to inspect and work on.
Tip #3: Never spray, touch or drip any oil or lubricants on the brake friction surfaces. If this occurs, spray immediately with brake cleaner to remove completely.
Tip #4: There are no shortcuts or quick fixes to brake problems. They either function properly or they don't. Know your brake system - how it should work, feel and sound - before it acts up so you'll know when something's wrong.
Tip #5: Most imports don't have serviceable rotors. They must be replaced at the same time as the pads. The rotors cannot be "turned" to remove imperfections. There isn't sufficient metal thickness to safely accomplish this.
Tip #6: Keep a repair log with receipts when any service is performed on your Honda. It helps when you need to check if your warranty is still in effect. More importantly, it's a great gauge of performance and an indicator of other problems.
Tip #7: Whenever the pads are replaced, the hydraulic system must be bled to remove any air bubbles. Most Honda specialists recommend changing the fluid with every pad replacement. If you're unsure of the proper technique for bleeding the hydraulic system, don't perform the job yourself. Seek help from a Honda professional. ABS equipped cars should be bled only by professionals.
Tip #8: Most noises are usually related to your pads. However, whenever replacing pads, you should also replace the sensors and seriously consider replacing the rotors at the same time.
Tip #9: After installing new pads, remember to "set" them properly. This conditions them for maximum performance and prevents premature failure. Instructions for setting pads is usually provided in the package with your new pads.
Honda Brake Parts Shopping List
When shopping for Honda brake parts, remember two important things:
1. OEM/OES (original equipment manufactured/supplied) or equivalent pads and rotors are not always cheap. You do, however, get what you pay for. OE parts will give you the most trouble-free driving and peace of mind. And . . . isn't that what's most important?
2. Before requesting any brake parts for your Honda, make sure you have the year, exact model designation, engine size and type, brake configuration, type of rotors (solid or vented), vehicle ID number (VIN) and production date. For Volvos, you'll also need rotor diameter, caliper manufacturer and mount and shape of the pads.
Here is a list of parts you should consider when working on Honda brake systems:
- Front Brake Rotors (Brake Discs) -
- Front Brake Pads -
- Rear Brake Rotors (Brake Discs) or Rear Brake Drums -
- Rear Brake Pads or Brake Shoes -
- Brake Sensors (front and/or rear, as applicable)
- Brake Calipers or Caliper Rebuild Kits -
- Wheel Cylinders -
- Hydraulic Hoses -
- Hose/Tube Fittings -
- Brake Master Cylinder -
- Power Booster -
- Reservoir & Grommets -
- Brake Proportioning Valve Assembly -
- Hydraulic & Brake Fluid -
- Brake Cleaner -
- Anti-Squeal Compound -
Don't Forget:
Repair articles are added regularly.
Come back often to check for new maintenance topics.
These repair tips are designed only as a starting point.
Please seek the assistance of a professional Honda mechanic
for all repair problems beyond your capabilities
lunes, 3 de noviembre de 2008
The Honda SUV
When it comes to the compact sport utility vehicle class, the competition is as fierce as ever before. People who want a SUV are buying compact because the gas mileage that they offer is better than larger options. And if you are in the market for a compact SUV, the Honda CRV is one of the best choices that you can make. Not only does the Honda CRV have a great on road feel, but it is capable of tackling bad weather as well thanks to a sophisticated four wheel drive system.
The current Honda CRV model has been around for several years and is due to get redesigned in the near future. But Honda may be holding off on this due in part to the fact that the current CRV is selling as good as ever before. It offers a more than capable four cylinder engine that comes along with acceptable gas mileage for a SUV.
If you are buying a new Honda CRV you will have the ability to equip it with leather interior; something that was not offered in the past. This makes the Honda CRV more versatile than ever before. And of course the leather seats go along with a well laid out interior.
Overall, the Honda CRV does have a lot of competition from other models in the class. But with that being said it is holding its own without any problems. When the new Honda CRV finally hits the market it is safe to say that it will also be among the most popular.
The current Honda CRV model has been around for several years and is due to get redesigned in the near future. But Honda may be holding off on this due in part to the fact that the current CRV is selling as good as ever before. It offers a more than capable four cylinder engine that comes along with acceptable gas mileage for a SUV.
If you are buying a new Honda CRV you will have the ability to equip it with leather interior; something that was not offered in the past. This makes the Honda CRV more versatile than ever before. And of course the leather seats go along with a well laid out interior.
Overall, the Honda CRV does have a lot of competition from other models in the class. But with that being said it is holding its own without any problems. When the new Honda CRV finally hits the market it is safe to say that it will also be among the most popular.
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